Completed Mod - Mac Mini with iMac G4 and G5 dual monitors

Original Dual Monitors with Mac Mini

New Setup with iSight G5, Mac Mini, and iPad

While the core components are completely unchanged from my previous 20" iMac G4 mod, this represents the completion of the overall setup.  I would highly recommend this to anyone in search of a "weekend hobby" who shares my enthusiasm for this generation of apple products.  Most people seem to be interested in the 17" mod, but as someone who has used both, I would recommend putting the resources into the 20" mod, if you truly intend to use this as a main desktop computer.  (Obviously if you already have a 17" dead iMac G4, its a different story).

Personally, it has become difficult for me to use LCDs under 19" as I've become so accustomed to larger displays.  The 20" iMac is a sizable display as is, but several factors actually make the screen bigger than most 20" displays.  For one, the aspect ratio is 16:10 not 16:9, for 20" this makes a substantial difference (1680x1050 vs 1600x900) in the overall size and pixel density.  Plus, the nature of the iMac G4 itself allows you to pull the display much closer to you than an ordinary LCD would sit.  Even still, to be a workstation, I feel multiple monitors are invaluable.  I got fortunate in "spare parts" that I was able to put the iMac G5 (native LCD, Apple Cinema Display's controller, inverter, and power source) together very quickly.  However, there are multiple ways to "resurrect" an iMac G5 as an external monitor depending on available parts.  The effect of having both together is great.  The iMac G5 is also quite ergonomic, in both its sliding and tilting.

While an All-In-One was the ultimate goal, by the time I figured out how to "modernize" the iMac with a Core 2 Duo Processor, Core 2 Duos were obsolete. With the mac mini also growing in length and depth, an all-in-one would need to be a hackintosh.  While the discussion regarding the price point of the mac mini is justified (depending on how you value aesthetics, form factor, and low power consumption), you can not call this generation underpowered.  I have been quite impressed, unless you are a gamer, there is not much you can't do with this machine.  (Im using the 2.7Ghz Dual Core i7 with discrete graphics.) For those waiting for the "X-Mac" this really might be it.

I originally concealed this in the inner part of the desk, but the I bought a great under desk mount with 4 front facing powered USB ports.

As I've mentioned the loss of the optical drive even as an option was unfortunate.  While both the G4 and G5 enclosures lend themselves to addition of an optical drive, its on the G4 where the drive actually contributes to the design.  While initially I was hoping to use bluray - Lion would not recognize the drive.  I ended up using an external DVD drive which I opened up and modified.

This is actually DC powered, so I used a power source from a broken internal drive enclosure.  I use the original iMac G4's AC plug, but split it, with one going to the cinema displays power brick and one going to the drive.  Thus, only one AC plug and no external power brick is required.

Rear Ports (USB Out, Drive Switch, AC Power)

The rear panel contains the original 3 pronged receptacle for AC power, an on/off switch for the drive, a USB out, the outgoing USB cable and HDMI cable.  The USB cable belongs to the cinema displays controller which then supplies 2 ports.  One is taken up by the drive internally, the other is on the back (hooked up to the camera here).  So, by having the drive plugged in, you essentially replace the used USB port.

Drive open

There is a quirk with the DVD drive.  When there is no media in the drive, the keyboard eject shortcuts do not work and you can not access the front button on the drive.  To eject the drive you have to open disk utility, click on the drive and press open.  Now by putting Disk Utility in the dock, opening the drive takes only 3 clicks, however, this is somewhat of a nuisance.  When media is in the drive this does not seem to be a problem.


SOLVED - thanks to fellow modder and iMac enthusiast Jean Luc, I now have an eject icon in the upper right corner, that allows me to easily eject and close the drive in the G4's dome.

This works flawlessly.  It eliminates a flaw of the mini and gives purpose to the base of the iMac G4.

Besides cleaning up a few of the rear ports, this iMac G4 mod is complete and perfect in this setup.  This is largely the same mod as before without the all in one.

Side/Rear iMac G5 (1st Generation) Mod

The iMac G5 chassis leaves plenty of room for further modification.  It is designed for speakers and its own drive.  Because I have an optical drive in the G4 and use the apple pro speakers, these are likely to be superfluous.  As of right now the Cinema Displays cable goes out where the power cable exited.  So the power brick is outside.  I may internalize this.  While I do like the ability to physically move the camera, I may consider obtaining an isight G5 and seeing if I can get an isight camera and convert it to USB.


UPDATED - with advise from Jean Luc and research I have realized that there is a considerable difference between the original iMac G5 (1st Generation)and the iSight iMac G5 (3rd Generation - much thinner, and with iSight camera/mic).  I am going to attempt to transfer the contents from this G5 to an empty chassis from an iSight G5.  I believe this will likely fit this mod better.  As I have stated much of the iMac G5's shell is currently wasted space, having a smaller, sleeker chassis would likely look better and save some desk space.  Although much tighter, the only contents that will need to fit are the Cinema Display's LCD controller and inverter .  In addition, as Jean Luc explains in the comments below, the iSight is simply a USB device.  With addition of either a USB adapter for the microphone, I can connect these to the Apple Cinema Display's USB ports.  As this leaves only 2 Firewire 400 ports, I would likely either hold off on adding the rear ports to see if my "thunderbolt dock" idea becomes feasible, or use a firewire to usb dock to add USB ports to the rear of the iMac G5.  The RAM access panel at the bottom may also let me bring back the Cinema Displays hardware touch power and brightness controls to the bottom of the display.

FURTHER UPDATED - I have indeed used JLs advise and the chassis of the iSight G5 complete with original microphone and iSight Camera.  Please see this post on the iMac G5 iSight for details.

At the very least I'm likely to add the Cinema Display's Firewire 400 and USB ports.  As I mentioned earlier, this monitor is hooked up using a mini display port via the thunderbolt port, I'd love to utilize this fact to make this a "dock".  Exactly as apple has done with its new Thunderbolt displays.  Thus, with one plug I could not only get the image to the G5s LCD but "transfer" the mac minis ports to the easily accessible rear panel of the G5.  This would allow for significant convenience.  I'm hoping such a dock may eventually become available or perhaps it could be taken from a broken thunderbolt display in the next year or so.

In general this is even beyond the setup that I envisioned as a best case scenario when I began this project.

Suggestions are appreciated.  And if there is interest I'd be happy to provide technical details.  Thank you for reading!

Finishing Touches and Ports

Although, I was disappointed by the limitation in operating system - I'm still excited that this is a true 20" all-in-one complete with blu-ray drive.  So, I want to make it as professional as possible.  I took the base apart to better secure everything.  Here you can see the ECX board elevated and secured to the Blu-ray drive.  I am using the native drive caddy - but did have to dremel off the top part of it to make room for the board.

As the CPU fan fits right under the dome I elected not to add an additional case fan.  There is no hard drive or power source and this is a low power consumption board, but I may revisit this depending on my cpu temps.  I had also initially placed a wifi card at the top of the dome, but the reception was too poor, so I have removed this and will use an external usb card.

For ports, I have chosen to use mostly extenders.  I find wires easier to deal with than circuits.

To cement things into place modeling clay/epoxy works well.  There are multiple kinds, but the basic idea is to mix equal parts to two compounds which begin to harden when combined.

The first thing I secured was the power button, placing a small momentary switch right behind the native iMac G4's power button.

The Right sided ports were where the ethernet, modem, and audio jacks were for the native iMac G4.  I have replaced these with a ethernet splitter and the power led, hdd led.  In the picture below you do see an audio header, which I was originally going to use, however, the ECX board uses a pin layout that I was unfamiliar with.   So I held off audio out for now and incorporated the two led lights.

The left sided ports consisted of 2 fire wires, 3 USB and a display out.  I opened up the display port somewhat to allow another USB port.  Because I am worried about power constraints (I'm using a 60 watt power supply).  I wanted to make sure I used some powered USB slots.  Fortunately I have another power supply coming into the base in the form of the Apple Cinema Display.  The controller gives 2 USB outs.  So two from the mobo and 2 from the cinema display = 4 total.  The firewire ports i am leaving empty for now.  The cinema display does allow for 2 firewire connections and I could add a firewire PCI express at some point.  I was also thinking about cutting a hope between these and putting an HDMI extender for use as a second monitor when needed.

Now that I have the basic layout I apply the molding.  It usually takes a good 24 hourse to harden.  I will use the center for the two power supplies.  The DC for the motherboard will be a simple plug, but unfortunately because there is no female version of the cinema display power, I am likely going to have to simply "run the cable out the back".

 So I place the drive caddy with bluray and ECX and secure it as it was designed to be.  After the ports dry I will secure them to the bottom of the dome, secure the Apple cinema display's LCD controller to the bottom and close the base.

As always, questions and comments are welcomed.  But, this should be complete within the next few days.

Step by Step Apple Cinema Display LCD Housing / 20" iMac G4 Touchscreen Mod

This guide details how to attach the cinema displays LCD hosing to the top of the neck without the forward displacement caused by using a VESA mount.  This technique can be used with other monitors.  Since the base components depend on what you intend to use this for, I have not gone into any details on the base here.


iMac G4 20" / Apple Cinema Display Parts List:
iMac G4 20" (Can be broken)
Apple cinema display 20" with PSU
5 wire resistive touchscreen
5 pin male to female touchscreen extension cable

Tools:
Rotary dremel with many cut off blades and sanders
Tin snips
Needle nose pliers
Mini screwdriver set
Allen wrench for cinema display stand
Full set torx screwdrivers or attachments
Soldering iron with solder
Wire cutter and stripper
Pliers
Duct tape
Gorilla glue
Cold weld
Multimeter with continuity check
Several sheets of grey styrene

I. Opening the Apple Cinema Display (This site is an Excellent Resource)
- remove stand by first unscrewing Allen bolt on each side then the 3 small torx-6 screws on underside of stand.  Pull to remove
- insert a small flat screwdriver and pry off the white side panels on both sides
- disconnect the power/brightness panel
- unscrew all the mini screws
- use a mini screw driver to lift off side metal panels
- unscrew top large screw on both sides
- use flat mini screw driver to pull on sliding tabs on both sides at the bottom of the monitor.  Pull tabs out - monitor should open
- disconnect 2 pin front led indicator
- slide monitor out feeding the cable through the hole in back until entire monitor is free.

Courtesy of The Ignition Project

II. Disconnect the cable.  The white cable splits off into several connectors that plug into the monitors boards.
- disconnect the black power connector by pressing down the latch
- disconnect the 5 pin cable from control board with needle nose pliers
- unplug the mini USB and FireWire cables that come from rear cable
- disconnect the 30 pin JAE connector that plugs into LCD by pressing in on clip on both sides simultaneously
- remove cable that attaches JAE connector and connects immediately to control board using needle nose pliers

III. Free the cable
-  using wire clippers or scissors all outer shielding (tan plastic) must be removed from cable.  remove all string.
- the big plastic block can be removed by slowly cutting with wire clippers or dremeling with cut off blade VERY carefully
-  in the end you should wind up with 4 independent cables surrounded by silver mesh ending in 4 white plugs
       a) The 30 pin JAE plug (with it's attachment) joins up with the 5pin connector to form 1 cable ending with DVI connector
       b) The power cable (black latch at one end, other end plugs into PSU)
       c) FireWire cable
       d) USB cable

IV. Opening the iMac monitor
- unscrew 3 torx-6 screws at bottom of monitor housing (be careful not to strip the screws)
- slide out front which should contain the LCD itself
- disconnect the wires including front led (try not to damage for later use), microphone, inverter cable, and 30 pin JAE connector to LCD
- use torx screwdriver to remove four screws holding bezel onto neck
- remove wireguard
- slide wires through hole and place monitor housing to the side

V. Open base
- almost all torx except for bottom plate - phillips.  will not get into, can remove everything (would leave drive tray)
- at top unscrew and free neck from base (save all screws)

VI. Wiring the neck
-  There are two options here I detail the differences in this post.  I'll discuss the one I went with the "hybrid method"

- Open the neck using taped together miniscrewdrivers
-  Find the microphone/led cable.  It is labelled.  The lcd side breaks into two parts.  One with 2 wires (LED), one with three(microphone)
-  This wire is tapped to another inside of the neck.  Gently cut the tape holding the wires together.

-  Cut this wire in half inside the neck and remove the cut wire from both ends of the neck.  (There is no use for these very small wires and this cable is the same size as the larger gauge power cable wires which will be taking its place). 
- Cut the connector off the black power cable.
-  Place the 3 wires (without the connector) into the neck start at the bottom hole and then through the top hole.
-  Pull through so that there is at least 18" of wire on the lcd side of the neck.
Close and seal the neck in the same fashion it was opened
-  Remove the native iMac's 30 pin JAE connector by cutting the wires.  (The pins in the connector are too fragile and not worth saving).
- Remove the pins gently from the iMac's inverter connector.
-  It should now look like:

-  Take the USB, DVI, and 5pin connector cable fome the apple cinema diaplay and cut off at least 12" from the LCD side.
-  You will now need to solder the power connector back on from where it was cut.
-  Solder the iMac G4's black wire (the one that has 3 wires that split into green, red, and shield) onto the ends of the Apple Cinema Displays JAE connector wires.  Use the soldering iron itself to melt the plastic covering as these wires are otherwise impossible to strip.
-  Solder 5 wires from the iMac G4's Gray cable onto the ends of the Apple Cinema Display's 5 pin connector.
[Although it probably doesn't matter which color wire you choose as long of you solder the bottom end onto the same wire, I used the wires that served the same function in the native iMac.]
-  Solder the USB onto 4 remaining wires from the gray cable
-  Solder 5 wires from the inverter cable to the male end of the 5 wire touch screen extension cable.
-  Repeat this process for the bottom half.  Making sure to solder the same wire to the bottom half that you chose for the top. REMEMBER TO PUT THE DVI CABLE THROUGH THE HOLE IN THE BASE BEFORE YOU SOLDER.
- Wiring the neck is detailed in greater depth in this post


VII. Making the Monitor casing
-  Unscrew the metal bracket that pokes out of the back of the Apple Cinema Display's Case

-  Using a flat screw driver pry up the metal plate that is glued down to the back of the Apple Cinema Display's housing.
-  Remove the inverter from the iMac G4's monitor housing
-  The inverter is held on by several screws
-  Using needle nose pliers pull out the 4 bolts in the iMacs back case that the inverter screw into
-  Place the Apple Cinema Display inside of the iMac G4's housing.  With the bol's removed it should fit flush and snug
-  Turn it over - The back of the apple cinema display should be visible in the iMac G4s hole where the neck used to be
-  Using a pencil trace that hole.

- Using a flat head screwdriver you will need to separate the iMac G4's metal housing from the white plastic it is glued to.  (To do this you will likely snap the white plastic several times).

-  Using tinsnips and a rotary or multimax dremel cut out a bracket from the center of the metal casing that includes the circular neck attachment.  Be patient, this is difficult to cut and will take some time.

Comparison of original and new bracket

If you are planning on incorporating a touch screen, trimming weight will be important.  Consider further cutting this bracket down to a smaller size.

Further Cut-down bracket

-  Using tinsnips cut out the hole that was traced on the back of the apple cinema display
-  Place the neck through the hole to ensure that it will fit
-  If small modification is needed use the dremel with either a cutting or sanding part.

With hole cut

-  It should now look like this
-  Position the bracket inside the apple cinema display and use the screws to secure the new monitor housing in place.
-  Make sure that the monitor is not rotated.

-  Trace around the bracket to record the proper position
-  Remove the monitor and bracket from the neck
-  Using grey styrene cut out small fill-ins for the two lines that come off the new hole as well of a circular fill in to the Apple cinema display's original hole
-  Glue these in place
-  Now position the bracket in place and Cold Weld vs Gorilla Glue the new bracket firmly down to the inside back of the apple cinema display's housing


VIII. Further Modification for use with touchscreen (This is only for people who wish to add the same touchscreen I did).
-  Cut further weight from the bracket as documented above
-  Trace the touchscreen dimensions on the front of the Apple Cinema Display's Bezel
-  Dremel out the inner portion of the front bezel
-  Fuse the LED cables from the two different monitors
-  This step is documented in great detail in this post.


VIII. Putting in the LCD
-  Place the cables through the bottom opening of the Apple Cinema Display
-  Reconnect to the LCD
-  Lift the LCD screen into the bezel.  As you do this try to keep the wires from stacking on top of each other (This can be a pain) otherwise it will not close easily.  (If you are using the touchscreen, try to leave that connector/cable accessible towards the bottom of the screen)
-  If you are using the touchscreen - place it in the modified front bezel and wrap the ribbon cable inside the bezel around the LCD and connect it to the 5 pin connector.
-  Leave the on/off brightness cable sticking out the side
-  Connect the LED cable (if you are using the modified original iMacs, wrap the ribbon cable around the bottom of the LCD.
-  Push in the pins at the bottom to close the display.  You should not have to use any force.  If you do readjust the wires behind the LCD.