tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post819118016419097593..comments2024-03-19T05:18:49.985-04:00Comments on Dremel Junkie: 20" iMac G4 "Genuine" Mod - INVERTER SOLVEDJBerghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07483779529359769527noreply@blogger.comBlogger6125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-17213585014671979232019-09-23T01:28:24.799-04:002019-09-23T01:28:24.799-04:00KineMaster for pc
KineMaster for mac
KineMaster wi...<a href="https://www.kinemasterforpcdownload.com/" rel="nofollow">KineMaster for pc</a><br /><a href="https://www.kinemasterforpcdownload.com/" rel="nofollow">KineMaster for mac</a><br /><a href="https://www.kinemasterforpcdownload.com/" rel="nofollow">KineMaster without watermark</a><br /><a href="https://www.kinemasterforpcdownload.com/" rel="nofollow">KineMaster chroma key</a><br /><a href="https://www.kinemasterforpcdownload.com/" rel="nofollow">KineMaster old version</a><br /><a href="https://www.kinemasterforpcdownload.com/" rel="nofollow">KineMaster for pc download</a><br /><a href="https://www.kinemasterforpcdownload.com/" rel="nofollow">Kinemaster whatsapp status video</a><br /><a href="https://www.kinemasterforpcdownload.com/" rel="nofollow">KineMaster video layer</a>parkshttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11977677285091335895noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-79533508421251413342011-11-10T15:54:50.331-05:002011-11-10T15:54:50.331-05:00JL - As I'm putting together the new 20" ...JL - As I'm putting together the new 20" I think you are right and that this is the time to try LED backlighting. Your cinema display mod is fantastic and I'm nearly certain I can use the same (or slight) PWM that you designed. I was hoping if I could get your advice and recommendations. With the "folding" method, how much LED ribbon did you end up using? How do you handle on/off and sleep? Did you choose bright white? How many lumens was your ribbon? Thanks again and I hope I can do 1/10th as beautiful a job as you did.JBerghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07483779529359769527noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-59598367434346756722011-11-04T20:20:05.919-04:002011-11-04T20:20:05.919-04:00Hey JL7, thank you and I completely agree. The 24...Hey JL7, thank you and I completely agree. The 24V line makes this much more of a pain. And I still have to figure out the wattage requirements that an all in one setup + LCD + inverter I'll require. What I'm using here is an AC to 24v DC power brick that powers a pico PSU that supports 24V DC input. The downside is that a "high wattage" 24v output power brick is harder to come by and more expensive than a 12v output. (I know of one - but it's pricey). Obviously splitting the power of the display and internal computer can be done, but 2 power bricks and AC plugs is not a very "elegant" solution.<br /><br />It's funny, had they continued to make 20" 16:10 monitors, I would have used the LED backlighting from an off the shelf monitor and been done with an iMac G4 mod that improves upon the original over a year ago. Your solution and mods are quite brilliant and LED backlighting this mod would be great. But, it requires a great amount of technical skill - I can't wait to try it myself, but am worried that I may have difficulty putting it together.<br /><br />I was wondering if you had any experience with DC-DC upconverters. I am trying to make as cheap and simple a solution as possible. Am i missing any other way to get a stable 24v line? Any advise or recommendations are appreciated. Thanks Again, JBJBerghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07483779529359769527noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-72159828850676541082011-11-04T04:44:24.613-04:002011-11-04T04:44:24.613-04:00JBerg,
Congratulations! I agree that using that 24...JBerg,<br />Congratulations! I agree that using that 24V power source is a good, but not the desired solution. You should really think about the LED conversion. My last two 20" Cinema Display conversions were really successful. Lately I found a (of course time-consuming) method, which results in a perfect brightness. Together with my small controller it even conserves the USB brightness control for those monitors. Advantage: Only a third power consumption than before and - 12V input!<br />Best Wishes<br />JL7JeanLuc7https://www.blogger.com/profile/08645246858118667385noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-65137909991305814192011-11-04T00:16:13.003-04:002011-11-04T00:16:13.003-04:00Thanks! Believe me it's been a long time comin...Thanks! Believe me it's been a long time coming. This uses a 24V incoming line that splits to power both the high voltage lines of the inverter as well as a Pico PSU that gives me my molex connector. I designed it this way as it can now power any atx compatible motherboard. However, although it is convenient to have only one power source/plug, the disadvantage is that I would need to have a 24V power source (at least 3 amps) with enough watts to power not only the lcd (inverter and all), but the motherboard and the drive. Worst case scenario, you could have seperate lines for the LCD and motherboard and still use the LCDs line to power peripherals (ex drives).JBerghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07483779529359769527noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-11994866138154300182011-11-03T15:39:16.464-04:002011-11-03T15:39:16.464-04:00Great news & thank you JGreat news & thank you JRogerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12736306272767378208noreply@blogger.com