tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post6292934075937442953..comments2024-03-28T03:05:37.501-04:00Comments on Dremel Junkie: The 17" iMac G4 Native PSUJBerghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07483779529359769527noreply@blogger.comBlogger44125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-57163214780314099642020-12-21T22:32:05.112-05:002020-12-21T22:32:05.112-05:00kawhi leonard shoes
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did you manage to repair the red/green do...Hi Tim,<br /><br />did you manage to repair the red/green dots?<br /><br />i have them too... and i am 100% sure its not the DVI but more a power problem :(<br /><br />https://www.icloud.com/photostream/fr-fr/#A4G4TcsmGS5OiK;4386FD1A-30B2-4D8E-A6E5-9105110CBB57<br />https://www.icloud.com/photostream/fr-fr/#A4G4TcsmGS5OiK;BE1DFA31-41C4-493F-A455-64490848B1C7<br /><br />thanks!<br />maoussemhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01029143865823023420noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-52439383000223517222013-02-23T22:56:26.981-05:002013-02-23T22:56:26.981-05:00I would love to help, but its difficult to say. S...I would love to help, but its difficult to say. Something is either not connected properly or damaged on a hardware level. Are you sure you used the right neck? The right resistors? Is your psu adequate?Dremel Junkiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00351974354168162974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-42150106031405737832013-02-23T22:53:50.878-05:002013-02-23T22:53:50.878-05:00Sorry to hear that, not sure why the native PSU fa...Sorry to hear that, not sure why the native PSU failed for youDremel Junkiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00351974354168162974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-80829866552786620922013-02-12T01:58:06.355-05:002013-02-12T01:58:06.355-05:00I have tried to follow your blog as best as possib...I have tried to follow your blog as best as possible, but I have run into an issue . I have all the cords connected, buy I get no picture when I test the monitor I get vertical lines and the back lights turn on very slowly. Do you know what could cause this? I I'm sorry to ask for help as you offer these guides for free, but any assistance would be of tremendous value to me.Devlinhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09008350308777216881noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-80700832860689054722012-11-21T04:49:36.643-05:002012-11-21T04:49:36.643-05:00Hi, I tried to use the native PSU with the pico PS...Hi, I tried to use the native PSU with the pico PSU. In theory it should work but in practical in my case it didn't. The backlight are not activated and the screen stay dark but display a very dark picture. So finally I use only the picoPSU with its power adapter. it's a pity but at least it worksSylvainhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/15161871199424321253noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-83029253698986967382012-10-14T20:55:14.093-04:002012-10-14T20:55:14.093-04:00There are plenty of good soldering irons. If you ...There are plenty of good soldering irons. If you plan on having it around for a while, I'd recommend a soldering station by Weller. I use the WLC100 by Weller and a 0.03" tip for most small electronics work. Again, this is just what I use and I like it because its durable and I was going through irons pretty fast. If you just need something to use for a few solder points, you don't need something this expensive.<br />The power switch depends on what you intend to do with this mod. Remember, the PSU is "always on", it will supply 12V as soon as the cord is plugged in. If you use a motherboard, the motherboard supplies the on/off to the LCD and backlights. So, the power switch is a momentary switch connected to the motherboard. The plastic button connects to a "plunger" inside. If you see my post "finishing touches and ports" in may, 2011. You'll see that I simply mounted a momentary switch behind the plunger so the existing button would depress the internal momentary switch. You could also but off the original mobos button and solder new wires to it.<br /><br />Without a motherboard it's a little complex, because a switch should be a toggle switch at the AC power or PSU to LCD level. Toggle switches are typically on/off switches, not push buttons which are usually momentary switches. You'll have to see if a push button toggle switch which can fit in that area exists. I am not sure.<br /><br />For the DVD you can't use an external DVD without disassembling it. Use an internal DVD with a Sata to USB and power converter.<br /><br /><br />Dremel Junkiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00351974354168162974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-22047421118935487422012-10-13T20:23:02.829-04:002012-10-13T20:23:02.829-04:00Well when put next to mine it is backwards. No mat...Well when put next to mine it is backwards. No matter, I guess it's just another variation. I have a few more questions. 1) Can you recommand a good soldering iron? 2) Where do I wire up the power switch? (Is it possible to use the plastic button (not the actual BUTTON, but the plastic circle you see from the outside) from the origonal computer? Mine is still connected and as tactile and pushable as ever) 3) Can you recommend a good USB DVD drive that I could put inside this? I have seen plenty on NewEgg, but they all seem too tall to fit and I'm curious what your thought is. <br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />CJseeeejaaaayhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04369444958433641950noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-38419978408779630262012-10-09T23:14:26.891-04:002012-10-09T23:14:26.891-04:00Seriously, I believe you, its OK. But, it doesn&#...Seriously, I believe you, its OK. But, it doesn't matter use a different yellow wireDremel Junkiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00351974354168162974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-12365817520391415612012-10-09T23:13:12.662-04:002012-10-09T23:13:12.662-04:00Its certainly possible, there is considerable vari...Its certainly possible, there is considerable variation in these PSUs. You don't need to do anything. All the yellows supply 12V and the blacks are grounds. They are essentially the same wire originating from the same source. Since you are using one yellow/black pair as a 12V source and down converting one to 5V - you only need two. It doesn't matter if you have one less, plus if you need more 12V rails just split them.<br /><br />Not sure why you think the image is backwards? It is a real photograph looking at the connector, with the clip on the bottom. The numbers are added over the images of the ports. If you are confused by the right to left numbering this wasn't done randomly. The numbers correspond to the actual pin numbers of the connector. The reason they appear backwards is because PSU pins (as is standard on most computer connections) are named by the way they orient on the female receptacle. This would be the part on the motherboard. So, if you were to plug the PSU in pin 1 goes to port 1 and thus would be the mirror image. You'll notice this is the same for all PSU numbering as well as the DVI numbering scheme in this very mod. So the number 1 refers to that pin no matter what orientation you hold it.Dremel Junkiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00351974354168162974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-79422757610674183042012-10-09T22:27:18.955-04:002012-10-09T22:27:18.955-04:00I'm somewhat afraid that you wont believe me s...I'm somewhat afraid that you wont believe me so I took a picture of where all the wires come out of the PSU just to show I only have 4 yellow ones.<br /><br />http://db.tt/vXS6I9LJseeeejaaaayhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04369444958433641950noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-24898172199627674152012-10-09T22:09:23.143-04:002012-10-09T22:09:23.143-04:00sry, that link appears to be broken. Here's a ...sry, that link appears to be broken. Here's a mirror. <br /><br />http://db.tt/MUgYpw8mseeeejaaaayhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04369444958433641950noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-33377669261548427282012-10-09T22:06:57.157-04:002012-10-09T22:06:57.157-04:00I cut the wires from the motherboard connector and...I cut the wires from the motherboard connector and these are what remain<br /><br />http://i.imur.com/Qc0Sr.jpgseeeejaaaayhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04369444958433641950noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-37220226060984311522012-10-09T21:52:04.015-04:002012-10-09T21:52:04.015-04:00Hey, got a problem. So I got all of the parts to d...Hey, got a problem. So I got all of the parts to do a 17in 1.25ghz conversion to an external monitor using the native PSU (I have a backup external PSU if the native one fails). The problem I just noticed is that your pinout says that pin 9 has a yellow wire. Mine is empty, and I know this isn't a mistake because when I bought the computer it was fully functional (I tested it myself) and when I gutted it, I did nothing to the wiring (I was very carful to not mess anything up). How can I remedy this issue? Also, the image is backwards and that had me really freaking confused for like five minutes straight. Mind flipping it horizontally?seeeejaaaayhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04369444958433641950noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-1839870323689779632012-06-12T23:01:18.993-04:002012-06-12T23:01:18.993-04:00No problem and you're very welcome. And thank...No problem and you're very welcome. And thanks for the idea, I appreciate any suggestions and helpDremel Junkiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00351974354168162974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-8382734437048188642012-06-09T13:39:55.549-04:002012-06-09T13:39:55.549-04:00https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7008950/web%20photo/P1050...https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7008950/web%20photo/P1050922.JPG<br />https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7008950/web%20photo/P1050921.JPG<br /><br />here are two more pictures showing the situation, some pixels flicker while some do not.<br /><br />TimAnonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-72833144424229962842012-06-09T12:06:02.747-04:002012-06-09T12:06:02.747-04:00After guessing my LCD might be gone after shorting...After guessing my LCD might be gone after shorting it, I tried to follow the 1GHz neck method by treating the "orange" as brown and it finally worked! I have to say the orange and brown looks extremely similar to me. I even compared it to the thin orange wire from the gray LCD wire and they looks the same! Luckily the LCD panel appears to be working even after the first failed attempt.<br /><br />https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7008950/web%20photo/P1050920.JPG<br /><br />Now I only have the crosstalk issues to deal with, as there are many blue and red pixels on screen.<br /><br />Also, I would like to know how you protect the pins? Do you have plastic casings that locks the whole thing up or you just leave it as it after using hot glue to strengthen the connections?<br /><br />Once again, thanks so much for your guide and prompt reply. I could not make this far without your help and contributions.<br /><br />TimAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com