tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post1301526064194805469..comments2024-03-18T06:06:08.534-04:00Comments on Dremel Junkie: 20" LCDs, Signaling, Inverters, and PinoutsJBerghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07483779529359769527noreply@blogger.comBlogger19125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-70068687747042242252022-05-14T18:29:44.570-04:002022-05-14T18:29:44.570-04:00replica goyard bags zeal replica bags replica ba...<a href="https://sesled65209.blogspot.com/2022/05/the-american-heavyweight-champion-was.html" rel="nofollow">replica goyard bags</a> <a href="https://tasleyez82716.blogspot.com/2022/05/1-phillip-lim-and-comes-in-variety-of.html" rel="nofollow">zeal replica bags</a> <a href="https://lenoan00414.blogspot.com/2022/05/so-i-think-they-felt-that-it-was-at.html" rel="nofollow">replica bags 168 mall</a>raseausthttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07755406819567327037noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-33637441519271103682020-12-21T22:51:35.817-05:002020-12-21T22:51:35.817-05:00curry
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Some words about LVDS interface to LCD... LVDS cables<br />Some words about LVDS interface to LCD TFT screens . <br />For those who want to know better - please read this Wikipedia<br /><br />Almost all modern laptop's (and monitor's) screens are LVDS types, it is type of serial connection to data source .<br />In short, LVDS is low cable count connection type, made as twisted pairs of data R G B (red, green, blue) plus clock data . <br />In each LVDS pair exist Positive(+) and Negative(-) wire , and those Positive and Negative must match in LCD socket and controller socket for proper work. <br /><br /><a href="http://www.douchebaggames.net/" rel="nofollow">douchebag games</a> Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09987369756196587820noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-83565160662295718232012-05-16T00:04:24.878-04:002012-05-16T00:04:24.878-04:00The Apple Cinema Display has what I think is a gro...The Apple Cinema Display has what I think is a ground at this position, it could also be some type of signaling wire (ex to the LED light or controller). Either way, I do not think leaving it unconnected will interfere at all with your image.Dremel Junkiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00351974354168162974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-44785153638455977992012-05-15T13:47:49.035-04:002012-05-15T13:47:49.035-04:00Hi, your Pinout seems to match mine perfectly exce...Hi, your Pinout seems to match mine perfectly except on Pin 21 where you state its empty and I have a brown wire :/ i suppose I could just leave this bare lolaf1https://www.blogger.com/profile/09703971587373906181noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-11591926530798466762012-05-13T07:00:00.505-04:002012-05-13T07:00:00.505-04:00Sounds promising, I just doubt I can find a Apple ...Sounds promising, I just doubt I can find a Apple Cinema Display at a sensible price in the UK (even broken) yes the G5 uses a ribbon cable, Im tempted to check ebay for a G4 cable, if not then ill hunt for a Cinema Display, Thanks for your helpaf1https://www.blogger.com/profile/09703971587373906181noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-78994388291017427302012-05-12T20:19:46.660-04:002012-05-12T20:19:46.660-04:00Alan, I have hooked the iMac G4s ID tech using my ...Alan, I have hooked the iMac G4s ID tech using my pinout and it works. I have then swapped this monitor out with the cinema displays LG (A6)(K1) and it worked. I have hooked up the ID Tech to the apple cinema displays controller and it worked. I have hooked your monitor (A5)(K2) up to the apple cinema displays controller and it worked. Unfortunately, I have never done specifically what you are asking - my G4 pinout on the (A5)(K2). There are extra pins on the cinema display that I do not know the function of. However, it seems that the basic TMDS pins are in the same place on all of these LCDs. I am pretty confident that you can use my pinout. Also, the inverter is likely similar with 2 24V, 2 grounds, and an on/off. One problem may be working with the G5s cable, if I recall I think it may be a type of ribbon cable. You could use a G4 cable, but they go through the neck, I don't know where you would get a free G4 cable. The simplest solution would be to do what I did in my G5 mod.<br /><br />What I used was an apple cinema display (20" aluminum) with a broken screen. I used that inverter and it's LCD controller (which is very thin). The advantage of using this LCD controller is that it gives you touch control power and brightness as well as acting as a FireWire 400 and USB 2.0 hub. Using these 2 USB ports I hooked up the iSight and Mic up via the USB. You could even add a USB drive if you wanted. Just a thought. Let me know if I can help.Dremel Junkiehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00351974354168162974noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-11642198418174974692012-05-12T19:31:46.658-04:002012-05-12T19:31:46.658-04:00Hi, I have the iMac G5 20" - LG Philips LM201...Hi, I have the iMac G5 20" - LG Philips LM201W01(A5)(K2) display, i think the pinouts are different for the g5 and g4, whats my best bet for connecting this to a DVI adapter? can i get a replacement cable from a G4 that would be easier to mod?<br /><br />Alanaf1https://www.blogger.com/profile/09703971587373906181noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-84045168055614239572011-07-31T16:08:57.985-04:002011-07-31T16:08:57.985-04:00Jberg,
Slot eject: I just removed the springs and ...Jberg,<br />Slot eject: I just removed the springs and half of the internal structure. Just the drive door itself was left. Easy to open manually just by pressing against the door.<br /><br />Your ideas on the G5 sound very interesting. I am just modding a G5 myself, got me a housing with nothing it it.JeanLuc7https://www.blogger.com/profile/08645246858118667385noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-550010919758955632011-07-28T13:29:34.621-04:002011-07-28T13:29:34.621-04:00JL7, very creative solution with the slot eject. ...JL7, very creative solution with the slot eject. Did you simply remove the springs or did you alter the mechanism.<br /><br />I am probably going to put drives in both computers. I am going to try to utilize parts that I already have. I am probably going to split the incoming AC for the iMac G4 and utilize the power source for an external drive enclosure that I have. I'll change the rocker switch to a push button on/off so I can use the iMac G4's native button to turn on/off the drive. I'll use the USB on the Cinema Display as this will still give me an extra USB port, although I will probably forgo Firewire 400 on the G4. As I already have it I may as well put the Bluray drive in here.<br /><br />The iMac G5 I have a slim DVD burner that I'll use in similar fashion, but as the power source is external here, Ill probably use a DC-DC power supply (that can handle 24V input). I would actually love to find an SATA to firewire 400, but haven't been able to find one. I'm going to discuss this in my next post and appreciate any suggestions/advice. Thanks again, JonJBerghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07483779529359769527noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-30590412732600499952011-07-28T04:45:27.690-04:002011-07-28T04:45:27.690-04:00As always - ite depends :-) Wikipedia says:
"...As always - ite depends :-) Wikipedia says:<br />"Typically a device can pull about 7 to 8 watts from the port; however, the voltage varies significantly from different devices. Voltage is specified as unregulated and should nominally be about 25 volts (range 24 to 30). Apple's implementation on laptops is typically related to battery power and can be as low as 9 V."<br /><br />In my understanding, 8W may be enough to run a Slim-line DVD drive (which usually requires about 800mA on a 5V USB line = 4W - in fact even this is out-of-spec for USB!), but you have to take care about this annotation about "unregulated" voltage. First, you have to find out the voltage on the FireWire-Port. If it is 12V and above, my proposal is to use one of these USB adapters for car cigarette lighters. Some of these allow a wide range input from 12-24V and they are very cheap on ebay. With this adapter you are usually able to pull more current than the usual 500mA, and you don't have to care about unregulated voltage. Maybe it even works with lower voltage.<br /><br />However, the situation is completely different for the tray loading 5,25" drives. These drives require much more power than the available 8W. In my opinion there is no way to connect these drives to a FireWire power source. Thinking about your BluRay drive (which is actually a 5,25" drive, right?) you should use a small separate power source.<br /><br />(Additionaly: In my own mod I decided to use a Slot-In drive within the iMac G4. It requires to remove the automatic-shut feature of the drive door, but placing the drive directly behind the door gives enough force to open it by the ejected CD. You have to close it manually of course. This also left more space for cooling th MiniITX board at the bottom of the dome)JeanLuc7https://www.blogger.com/profile/08645246858118667385noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-47621056740012341752011-07-28T00:37:19.167-04:002011-07-28T00:37:19.167-04:00JeanLuc, as always your input is greatly appreciat...JeanLuc, as always your input is greatly appreciated. while I know I have already asked your assistance in regard to the inverter, I am also going to pick your brain regarding power. As the new mini has lost its optical drive, placing one in the iMac G4 and/or G5 in my setup now will actually be functional.<br /><br />For the iMac G4 - this needs a tray loading 5.25" drive, the iMac G5 is a slim slot loader. I am gonna ditch the bluray as Apple will never natively support it for an internal DVD-RW / Superdrive. Then use a SATA to USB and connect either the the minis USB or to the Cinema Displays USB (which is then connected to the mini). My question is. can I leach power from the firewire ports? Or would you split the AC and use a small separate power source with its own on/off switch for the drive for either or both of these?JBerghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07483779529359769527noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1356325415325804255.post-78958245753805289402011-07-25T06:51:26.866-04:002011-07-25T06:51:26.866-04:00JBerg,
excellent conclusion on the LCD subject.
S...JBerg,<br />excellent conclusion on the LCD subject.<br /><br />Some Annotations: When you take a deeper look at the ACD Logic Board (LB), it turns out to be a mixture of VRM (voltage Regulation Module), USB Hub (with an additional USB device for the brightness control) and FireWire Hub. The display itself is connected to the LB via a 20(?) pin connector, which I did not inspect further.<br /><br />Generating 12V and 5V out of 25V should be easy. The display itself with its 12V power line does not consume a high current, neither does the so-called 3.3V line. So you might use two linear voltage regulators (Standard 3pin housing, 7812 - 12V, and 7805 - 5V) to generate the additional voltage. The 12V 7812 may become a bit warm and may require a small heat sink. That way you should only need one single power brick. <br />Regards,<br />JL7JeanLuc7https://www.blogger.com/profile/08645246858118667385noreply@blogger.com